Step 1
Remove the end cap from the pedal using a 6mm hex wrench.

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TOOLS REQUIRED
Please note that there are THREE left and right specific parts…

Remove the end cap from the pedal using a 6mm hex wrench.

Insert an 8mm hex wrench into the end of the axle, and use a 3mm hex wrench to unscrew the axle bolt inside the pedal.
NOTE: the right pedal uses a left-hand threaded axle bolt, turn clockwise to remove.
*The axle bolts should not be re-used after removal.

Slide the axle out of the pedal body.

Use the 6mm hex wrench to push the bearings and spacers out from the back (they should slide out).

Use a pick to carefully remove the seal from the pedal body.

The bushing has a long lifespan and can often be left in the pedal while other parts are replaced. Inspect the bushing to see that it is still fully seated inside the pedal body and is flush with the inside face of the pedal.

If the bushing has crept out of its seat, use the bushing install tool to press it back in.

Clean the pedal inside and out thoroughly with a clean rag and some isopropyl alcohol.

If the axle has excessive play in the bushing, or the bushing appears to be damaged, it will need to be replaced. The necessary tools for replacing the bushing can be found at wolftoothcomponents.com

To remove the bushing, use a 7/16” tap. Hold the pedal in a vise using soft jaws or a thick towel. Press the tap into the end of the bushing and use an adjustable wrench or tap handle to turn it clockwise to cut threads into the plastic bushing.
Continue turning until the tap has cut threads for 6 or 8 revolutions. Don’t worry about damaging the bushing, as it is being replaced, but take care not to gouge the pedal body.

Pull the bushing from the pedal body. It may help to hold the tap with the vise and pull on the pedal body.

Clean the pedal body with isopropyl alcohol to remove any old grease, dirt, or debris from the inside of the pedal.

Slide the new bushing onto the bushing installation tool with the chamfered side at the tip of the tool.

Firmly press the bushing into the pedal body, with the chamfered end going in first. The bushing should come to a stop when the end is flush with the pedal body.

Insert the lip seal into the pedal body with the lip facing out. Press around the edge of the seal until it is fully seated.

Apply a generous coating of grease (e.g. Motorex Bike Grease) to the inside of the pedal body, on the bushing, and inside of the seal.

Place the bearings and spacers back into the outboard end of the pedal. Organize the spacers in the orientation for the desired Q-factor (see chart). Apply a coat of grease to the outside of the bearings before installing.

Slide the axle into the pedal. If the bearings get pushed out a little, use a hex wrench to push them back down until they are fully seated and flush with the end of the axle.

Drop the axle bolt into the end of the pedal body, and use a 3mm hex wrench to start threading it in. Remember that the right pedal uses the knurled head axle bolt with left-hand threads, and you will turn it counterclockwise to tighten.

Insert the 8mm hex wrench into the end of the axle, and finish tightening the axle bolt with a torque wrench. Torque the axle bolt to 5Nm. It is critical that this is torqued correctly with a torque wrench. Failure to properly tighten may result in the pedal falling off while riding.

Apply a light coat of grease to the o-ring and the threads of the end cap. Place the end cap back into the pedal body and tighten it using the 6mm hex wrench. Torque to 7Nm.

Spin the axle by hand to make sure the pedal spins smoothly without any unusual resistance or binding. If the bushing was replaced, the axle may feel tighter than before -- this is normal, and will feel smoother after your first ride.

Remove the binding stop screw. Use a T15 Torx wrench, and turn counterclockwise.

Remove the binding stop. Use a large pair of external snap ring pliers against the front and rear binding to pry the rear binding back and relieve the pressure on the binding stop so it can be removed.

Remove the binding screws on the front binding with a T15 Torx wrench. Turn counterclockwise.
Note: The loctite on the binding screws is very strong and the screws may be difficult to remove. Stripping the screw or breaking a wrench is possible. Wear safety glasses.

Remove the front binding.

Unscrew the spring pivot. On the right pedal, the pivot is right hand threaded and you will turn counterclockwise to unscrew. On the left pedal, the pivot is left hand threaded and you will turn clockwise to unscrew.

Pull the spring pivot from the pedal and the rear binding can be removed.

Apply a brush of grease to the inside faces of the rear binding pocket.

Line up the rear binding with the pivot holes in the pedal body, and slide the correct spring pivot pin through the inboard hole in the pedal body and one side of the binding.

Apply grease to the top of the head on the tension screw. Then place the tension screw (with spring plate installed) into the center hole in the rear binding. Make sure the indents on the spring plate are positioned vertically.

Grease and install the inboard spring (with the straight tail resting against the spring seat on the pedal body) and continue sliding the spring pivot pin thru to hold the spring in place.

Grease and install the outboard spring (with the straight tail resting against the spring seat) and continue sliding the spring pivot pin thru the spring, thru the rear binding, and into the outboard side of the pedal body.

Tighten the spring pivot to 7Nm. The right pedal uses a right hand threaded spring pivot (red loctite) and tightens clockwise. The left pedal uses a left hand threaded spring pivot (yellow loctite) and tightens counterclockwise.

Install the front binding. Tighten binding bolts to 7Nm (clockwise).

Use a large pair of external snap ring pliers against the front and rear binding to pull the rear binding back so you can place the binding stop into position.

Tighten binding screw to 7Nm (clockwise).

Your new Wolf Tooth clipless pedals are warranted for defects in material or workmanship for a period of five (5) years from the date of purchase. Proof of purchase is required for all warranty claims. The warranty applies only to the original owner and is not transferable. The warranty is at the sole discretion of Wolf Tooth Components, LLC and is limited to the repair or replacement of the defective part(s) and this is the sole remedy of the warranty. The warranty does not cover normal wear and tear, routine maintenance, improper installation or use. Wolf Tooth Components, LLC shall not be responsible for incidental or any other costs incurred by the user or warranty service provider that are not expressly covered by this warranty. Any modifications to the pedals or failure to follow installation and maintenance instructions voids the warranty. The user assumes all risk of injury or property damage if the pedals are modified or used improperly. Warranty duration and laws may vary from state-to-state and country-to-country.